I've now discovered why the cathedral and its contents were getting so spruced up the other day. Wednesday 21st November sees just about the biggest event in the year for Chania and its church, for this is the festival of the Virgin Mary. Not Mary the mother and 'the queen of all saints' - her day is 15th August, the name day for all married women called Maria.
No, Wednesday apparently marked the presentation of the Virgin Mary at the temple when she was three years old and is the name day of all unmarried girls called Maria - in theory themselves virgins.
Celebrations for this festival started on Tuesday evening, with a lot of bell ringing and chanting broadcast through the loudspeakers on the front of the church (and very close to my balcony). This lasted until at least midnight and then it all started again early on Wednesday morning, which was one of glorious warm sunshine and clear blue sky. Mary was smiling down on her big day.
And big day it was. Hundreds - maybe even thousands - of people dressed in their best were filing in and out of the cathedral and milling in its courtyard, the centre of which was firmly occupied by lines of armed soldiers and sailors. Some lit candles or ate chunks of ceremonial bread, others greeted and chatted while yet others simply looked on thoughtfully.
The constant background sound to all this activity was the chanting and sermons of dozens of priests and cantors, all clad in their white ceremonial robes with red flowers embroidered on the back.
Out in the narrow street, children were gathered in preparation for their turn to process into the cathedral. The younger ones were wearing uniforms (only used on ceremonial occasions) while teenagers were dressed in the traditional costume of this part of Crete. None seemed self-conscious, instead they looked quietly proud and extremely dignified.
I was really struck by the similarity of some modern young girls to the portrayals of Minoan women and girls of around 2,000 BC. The same beauty and bearing was there, the same strong sense of femaleness devoid of any coquettish undertones - even among some very glamorous young police women.
The same could be said of most people, who exuded a dignified sense of togetherness, an easy awareness of community. Darting around with my little camera, I tried to be respectful but I did want to capture the uplifting spirit of the day to share. I hope you can feel and enjoy it.
No, Wednesday apparently marked the presentation of the Virgin Mary at the temple when she was three years old and is the name day of all unmarried girls called Maria - in theory themselves virgins.
Celebrations for this festival started on Tuesday evening, with a lot of bell ringing and chanting broadcast through the loudspeakers on the front of the church (and very close to my balcony). This lasted until at least midnight and then it all started again early on Wednesday morning, which was one of glorious warm sunshine and clear blue sky. Mary was smiling down on her big day.
And big day it was. Hundreds - maybe even thousands - of people dressed in their best were filing in and out of the cathedral and milling in its courtyard, the centre of which was firmly occupied by lines of armed soldiers and sailors. Some lit candles or ate chunks of ceremonial bread, others greeted and chatted while yet others simply looked on thoughtfully.
The constant background sound to all this activity was the chanting and sermons of dozens of priests and cantors, all clad in their white ceremonial robes with red flowers embroidered on the back.
Out in the narrow street, children were gathered in preparation for their turn to process into the cathedral. The younger ones were wearing uniforms (only used on ceremonial occasions) while teenagers were dressed in the traditional costume of this part of Crete. None seemed self-conscious, instead they looked quietly proud and extremely dignified.
I was really struck by the similarity of some modern young girls to the portrayals of Minoan women and girls of around 2,000 BC. The same beauty and bearing was there, the same strong sense of femaleness devoid of any coquettish undertones - even among some very glamorous young police women.
The same could be said of most people, who exuded a dignified sense of togetherness, an easy awareness of community. Darting around with my little camera, I tried to be respectful but I did want to capture the uplifting spirit of the day to share. I hope you can feel and enjoy it.
I love the photos, especially the last one of the girl :)
ReplyDeleteWouldn't mind getting arrested by one of those police women ;-)
ReplyDelete